Style Arc Susan Top V. 2

Whatever happened to me?! 　

Life!

It has been an eventful year so far. Well, that's another post. For now, I'm going to play a catch-up. Shall we?

First, a project from February. 

My favorite Style Arc Susan Top. Here's the version 2. My first one, exactly a year ago, is here. 

I wanted to make it with just a tiny bit more ease added on the armhole and upper part of sleeves this time. That was successful.  However;  

I have yet to learn much about fabric selection. This was a very light weight jersey knit. Beige in color.  So light weight that I didn't want to bother with hems of any sort.  So, just serged and left as is. 

It looks fine on my grey dress form. But when I put it on me, the beige color next to my skin made it look like it's a long underwear! Nothing I can really wear as an outerwear.

Thought about embellishment with these fabrics. Maybe an applique? 

Maybe make it a bit more cheerful. But, noooo. The shirt will forever be my inner wear, waiting for winter! 

I think this fabric would have made a beautiful cardigan, perfect for summer evenings in Seattle.  Well, live and learn. 

Please share with me your fails and learnings in the department of fabric selections.

Style Arc Laura Dress in Dark Chocolate and Velvety Chocolate Lace, Topped with Caramel

I've had my eye on this pattern for quite sometime. I bought a "Laura Set", and had already made the cardigan the other day. 

I just love Style Arc patterns. The designs, the fit, the clean and simple directions. They assume you know how to sew, so there's no micro-managed step-by-step directions. Therefore, might not be recommended as your very first sewing project, but once you know the basics, you'd appreciate their simple directions that do not crowd multiple large sheets of instructions that are folded up million  times.

I made my usual  2" petite adjustment for the waist line.  I could have added 1" or even the entire 2" back at the hem, if I wanted it to be a little longer. This was juuuust long enough for me.

I bought size 8 this time. I bought size 6 for my previous top patterns from Style Arc. It was a snug fit, very fitted and I liked it for the most part. However, I realized I prefer it with just a little bit more ease, especially around the armscye.  So, I went for size 8 this time, and I am satisfied. (I usually wear RTW size 4 or 6 for tops)

The sleeves are see-through with this velvety chocolate lace. It's a poly stretchy lace knit with velvet-like feel. (I'm sure there is a name for it. What is that?!) I needed to cut off about 4.1/2" on the sleeve length.

For the yokes, it's the same fabric as the sleeves but I decided to line with a light weight beige jersey knit I had in my stash so that it is not sooooo see-through. It's interesting to see how different the same fabric looks with a backing. Without the backing, it shows more of the color gradation of brown to black.

The difficult decision was the neck binding. Whether to use the main fabric?

Or the contrast lace fabric that I also used for the sleeves and the yokes?

After consulting with my RTW Fasting sisters, and sleeping on it, I decided to use the main. I think either would have worked out fine. I will, however, make the neckline opening a little wider next time.  I don't have a particularly long neck, and it looks more flattering on me if the neckline opening is a bit wider.

By the way, the main fabric is a dark chocolate brown Anna Sui knit I bought from Billie's Designer Fabrics at the Sewing Expo earlier this year. The poly lace knit is a thrift store find. I still have close to 2 yards or so of it.

After taking all the above shots, I decided that I didn't like the way I finished the hems. Both the sleeves and the dress itself.  For the sleeves, the folded up hem ruined the sheerness of the fabric. So, I decided to just leave the cut raw edge as is.

I was going to leave the raw edge as is for the dress hem.  But it was already curling up. So, I decided to use the overlock stitch on my machine. (By the way, I'm in love with the #2 presser foot on my machine when I saw so close to the edge of the fabric.) 

Then, I turned it over once and gave it a stitch with this color of thread. Caramel color!

 

Comfortable to wear - that's one of my top priorities in the garments I wear. It is comfy and I'm quite happy with my Thanksgiving weekend sewing project.

Now, I'm looking for a dress pants pattern (woven or stretch woven), preferably with pockets. Which Style Arc pants pattern is your favorite? Other than Style Arc, any recommendations?  

Style Arc Laura Cardi in Sweet Sweater Knit

Luscious. I LOVE this sweater knit.  Both sides. It just feels so soft and warm. Once I put it on, I don't want to take it off. The fabric looks, and feels gorgeous.

A rare moment here in Seattle autumn early winter. It suddenly dried up, so I dashed outside for a photo opp.

I took my usual 2" petite length adjustment at the waist. Still, debated on the final hem length. I decided not to shorten any further. I'm very happy with how it turned out.  It's like a cardigan/jacket hybrid to me.

Well, lucky me. This fabric came to me as a gift. This French wool blend sweater knit came from Britex Fabrics, which requires no introduction to us sewists, a fantastic fabric store in San Francisco. It's absolutely gorgeous. 

This fabric was a gift from a friend. She was an avid sewist. She lovingly collected lots and lots of beautiful fabrics over the years. (you know how that goes, we all have a stash!) Very sadly, she became unable to sew anymore due to a medical condition.  The family recently decided to release her huge collection of fabrics, patterns, and sewing notions. I am so fortunate to have received some beautiful fabrics and patterns. She has some darn good taste!

I've had my eye on Style Arc's Laura Cardi for some time.  I've just been looking for the right fabric to make it. When I saw this beautiful sweater knit, I knew it was the one. The bolt had about 3 yards. Plenty for this cardi jacket.  Perfect.  I'm so grateful.

Just a tiny bit bulky at the back of shawl collar/hood, but it is cozy and I love it.

The shawl collar turns into a hood. Even cozier with the hood on.

It has only been 10 minutes outside and the sun has already disappeared, and it's starting to get a little windy.  Oh, hey, my cardi jacket hood comes in handy!

By the way, I'm wearing one of my M 6841 tops inside. The perfect color to coordinate with this cardi.

I think I can perhaps call this reversible.  The pattern suggests that all the seams be serged or finished with overlock stitch. 

I think I can also wear it like this with a belt.

This project came together very quickly and easily. Possibly the fastest project I've ever sewn. However, I sat on it for a few days after I put the pieces together, trying to decide how I would want to finish all the seams.  I did a bunch of test sewing on scraps over two days until I decided on the #9 overlock stitch on my machine. (By the way, I can't tell you how amazing Bernina presser foot #2 is for overlock hem finishing. So smooth and so easy.) I tested a few different serged finishes, too, but felt that it would add a bit more bulk and weight than I wanted.

I love the wavy shawl collar edge created by the overlock stitch.  This was the effect I was hoping for, and I got it. So happy.

Here is the sleeve edge.

I'm satisfied with this.  I didn't change the sleeve length. It's a little on the long side, but for a cardi, I like it this way.

It goes very well with the brick siding backdrop! Haha.

I am really, really loving this cardi jacket. So far, every time I sewed up a Style Arc, I remind myself that I should use Style Arc patterns more often.  It is definitely my favorite pattern company right now. Its designs are clean and simple, I like its fitted style, I don't need to adjust anything  (except for the length - as I'm 5'1").  I used size 8 on this pattern, although I've used size 6 in my previous Style Arc patterns. On a couple of size 6 tops I sewed before, I felt that I wanted just a little bit more ease especially around armscye. It was a good idea to order size 8 for this cardi. I love the fit. Very comfortable. In RTW, I usually wear 4 or 6 for tops. 

15 minutes of dry weather was all we could get.  It's starting to sprinkle a little.

What a season appropriate first project of the month of November.  I gratefully receive this beautiful fabric.  I am very happy being wrapped in, and hugged by this fabric -- sweetly warm and cozy.

Happy sewing in this month of gratitude!

Many Ways To Wear : McCall's 6844, Done.

Now I understand what all the hype was about.  I admit, the photo on the envelop looks very cute. But it wasn't just the photo. This pattern is excellent in many ways.

By the way, I made View A with the length somewhere between View A and B. I took the Petite length adjustment. The final hem length ended up about 4 inches shorter than regular View B length. I didn't make the peplum option as I didn't think it would look good on me, but it sure looks fun if you like peplum.

First of all, do you see those PINK dots?! "EASY", "PETITE".  To me, these are the two sexiest words they could put on the pattern envelopes. I'm sold. A great marketing ploy. I fall for it every time!

Alright, the pattern is great.  But I'm so proud of the type of fabric I chose this time. It was an excellent choice. Very light weight sweater knit. Cotton/poly with a little lycra.  White/blue with silver lame thread running through.  (Now, it's lamé, and not l-ay-me lame!)

 

Mmm, kinda hard to see.  Here is right/wrong sides shown together. The fabric came from one of the big chain fabric stores.  Surprise, surprise. I was there just to purchase some patterns. I never find anything that I want to use for making clothes there.  BUT, I learned a trick.  

For some strange reason, the good ones (for making garments) are all on the "Clearance" pile.  I actually found a few things I could use for unbelievably cheap. I found this fabric actually several months ago, but ever since, when I go there I check the clearance pile, and there usually is something I can use. If I go to the regular shelves, I find nothing.  Fine by me~.

 

Some patterns are drafted very well, and I think this is one of them.  It just works, if you know what I mean.

 

For the collar band interfacing, I used this expensive stretchy knit interfacing. This cost almost as much as this clearance sweater knit! The fabric is VERY stretchy. 

 Hey, this photo shows the actual fabric color the best. It's more blue like this.

The result was a beautiful neck/collar line.  It was worth the price. The collar feels soft and stretches nicely with the fabric.

As I was finishing, I was thinking that maybe I didn't want to put the interfacing. Maybe  wanted the collar to be floppy, real floppy.  Maybe next time I'll make one without interfacing.  So, I was fiddling with the collar to see if I could make it look not so stiff.  It isn't stiff at all, but it looks "structured" against the rest of the garment.

Then I realized.  This garment can be worn many different ways~!

You're going to have to see this pic again. As the pattern design intended. This way, with the collar band running all the way down.

Or like this.

Add a belt or scarf tie, to make it an instant sweater jacket.

Fold the collar band completely inside, and it looks more like a regular cardigan. I think you can even put buttons on it.

Narrower collar band showing, and add a broach.

The same idea, but even narrower collar up at the top only. It looks more like a tunic, or a half coat.

Wear a scarf under the collar.

Around the neck.

As if that wasn't enough photos, now you get to see me wear it.

Uh. Sorry, bad lighting day, today.

The back view.  Soft and flowy.

Ok, I'm going to play with the collar now.

See? Like this.

It does look like I'm wearing an A-line tunic.

Now, the collar isn't folded.  Just all the way out.

I like this no collar folding business.  It feels more like a real cardigan.

Then, this.  Another tunic-y look.

Or maybe a jacket-y look.

Now the collar is folded inside. Seriously, I may skip the collar, but use half width collar band pattern just to create button bands and put some pretty buttons on.

You like this?

I decided this look isn't for me. It feels like I'm wearing a smoking jacket, or an extremely short bathrobe!!

And the scarf look.  Ok.

Oh, so focusing on the cardigan, I forgot to report that I made another Style Arc Linda Stretch Pants. Here~!

These are so comfy.

Ok, you can see how happy I am with both the cardigan and the pants, but especially the cardigan.  It was easy to put together, very straight-forward and simple. I like the flattering design. I did the petite adjustment as shown on the pattern, and it set the waist right where it needs to be. (Doesn't always happen) Versatile garment, as you can see.

This one really worked. I can see me making v. 2 soon.